The Kingdom of Eswatini is a land-locked country to the east of South Africa. 

The name of the country is now officially eSwatini, and this is a reflection of the literal translation of the country’s name in Swazi language. ‘Swaziland’ is a name used by colonisers and was not chosen by the country itself, therefore really, it should be referred to as ‘eSwatini’. The King of eSwatini chose the name personally, and wishes it to be used officially.

Interestingly though, in the country itself, the name ‘eSwatini’ is rarely used and almost all of the local people still refer to themselves in English as ‘Swazi’ and to their country as ‘Swaziland’. We even asked several people which they preferred and they all said ‘Swaziland’.

It is almost entirely surrounded by the larger country, but also shares a border with Mozambique. I visited Eswatini as a extra exursion during my Mozambique trip. My first plan was to visit Maputo National Park in Mozambique. But if, like me, you don’t have your own transport, it’s the easiest way to see some of Africa Wildlife is to take a game drive in Hlane NP in Eswatini. If you’re renting a car, you can just drive there and pay your $25 for a game drive, along with the $3 entrance fee, and head back again or stay the night.

Swaziland, it’s a beautiful country full of friendly locals.

Hlane Royal National Park. It’s incredibly inexpensive compared to the cost of drives in its neighbouring countries, and as a bonus, you’ll most likely have the entire car to yourself.

The park constitutes the largest groups of big games in Swaziland, including lions, leopards, elephants, white rhino, as well as an astonishing birdlife including the highest density of nesting white-backed vultures in Africa. Other large mammals in the park include giraffe, hippo, zebra, marabou stork and antelope.

Mozambique is a south-east African country with a long coastline bordering the Indian Ocean. I have visited Maputo, the Bazaruto Archipelago, Vilanculos and Hlane Royal Park. One of the main reasons of my Mozambique trip was scubadiving.

Nestled on the southeastern coast of Africa, Mozambique is a country of natural beauty and cultural richness that has remained largely undiscovered by visitors. With its long stretches of pristine coastline, breathtaking marine life, and diverse wildlife, I saw how Mozambique offers a unique and unforgettable African experience .

Mafalala visit

Mafalala is a Maputo suburb that accentuates that differences between the old and the new Mozambique, the pre and post-colonial Mozambique, the Christian, Muslim and Animist Mozambique, the foods, the dances, the hardships and the joy. In these spiralling laneways many of Mozambique’s most famous and influential people were born and then nurtured. Together with guide Derson we have spent half a day in this unique Maputo suburb.

Mozambique is home to some of the most stunning beaches and islands in Africa. Many islands are perfect for snorkeling, diving, and swimming, and are home to an array of marine life, including dolphins, whales, and sea turtles.Unfortunately i did not get to see any whale sharks on my days of diving. So,despite the whaleshark season has started, we did not encounter any, but we saw lots of alive coral and many colorful fish.

HONEYMOON WEDDING CEREMONY
For the honeymoon usually the groom and the bride spend their honeymoon at their “new” home or in a hotel.
They usually need to go the church because Mozambique has a very strong religios community.
Its part of the Mozambican traditions that on the wedding day the husband is not allowed to see the bride until they meet at church, as it is considered to be bad luck to see the woman before. The botanical garden is a popular photoshoot location.
After that they have a big party with family and friends.

Another must-visit destination is Bazaruto Archipelago, located in the southern part of the country. The islands offer a mix of luxury and adventure, with activities ranging from island-hopping, horseback riding, and dhow cruises to scuba diving and deep-sea fishing. The archipelago is also home to some of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world, making it a popular spot for snorkeling and diving.

The lively seaside town of Vilanculos is ideally located for exploring the three main islands of the Bazaruto Archipelago (Bazaruto, Benguerra and Magaruque), lying just off the mainland of Mozambique. The Bazaruto Archipelago is Mozambique’s premier travel destination – a tropical beach paradise with clear turquoise waters and palm fringed islands. As a protected area, the reefs are pristine and the sea life here is spectacular. This cluster of five unspoiled tropical islands is considered one of the most beautiful places in Africa. Mozambique’s only marine reserve, Bazaruto is world-renowned for its superb diving and snorkelling given the abundant sea creatures inhabiting its intact reefs. Marine life includes an impressive variety of tropical fish, whales and dolphins, as well as the rare Dugong (sea cow) and Nile crocodiles. Some of the aquatic creatures sighted on dives include whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, lobsters, barracuda, clown fish, Moorish idols and mackerel. Antelopes, Samango monkeys and around 180 bird species also inhabit the Bazaruto islands.

The Beach of Tofo is one the best of southern Mozambique. It is picturesque and a great place to relax. I unfortunately have only 1 day here to spent before i will head back to the capital.

Back in the capital of Mozambique: Maputo.
Because of the election results, the country is facing a difficult situation.
We will not going to Maputo National Park, 2 hours south, as planned, but we will choose for an alternative to Swaziland, tomorrow.
My guide explains:

Hi Mr. how are you? I am worried, the actual biggest opposition leader of Mozambique has announced 7 days march starting from 31st October to 7th November. He is calling people from all the provinces of Mozambique to come to Maputo city to march for power and those who can’t come to march in Maputo should do in their own provinces. Maputo is at risk of being the most unsafe place in the country during the 7 days. On the other hand It is unbelievable that it will happen because we have never experienced anything like this in history. But something is true, he has closed the country, first for 1 day and second for 2 days, He is the most followed politician at the moment although being also the most wanted person by Mozambican authorities. If it happens, the roads will be closed, I hope it doesn’t happen….

Mozambique is not just about its beaches and islands. The country is also home to a diverse range of wildlife and natural habitats. Gorongosa National Park is one of the most popular wildlife destinations in Mozambique, but difficult to reach. I love wildlife and now i am in Africa! My plan was to visit Parque Nacional de Maputo.
Due het current situation in Mozambique, and the risique of blocked roads there was a proposal to visit Hlane Royal National Park in Eswatini.
3 hours driving from Maputo.Hlane is an affordable lowveld destination with exciting species lists including impressive ancient hardwood habitats, big game and rich birdlife.This 22,000 ha park, once the region’s rich hunting grounds, still boasts the largest herds of game in the Kingdom with speciality species being lion, elephant, vultures and marabou stork. So i can recommend Hlane Royal Park in the kingdom of Estwatini (Swaziland).

Mozambique is a country with a rich cultural history, influenced by Portuguese, African, and Arab cultures. The capital city, Maputo, is a hub of cultural activity, with art galleries, museums, and markets. I explored the historic Maputo Central Market, known for its fresh seafood, spices, and handicrafts, i visited the National Art Museum aswell, which showcases the country’s contemporary art scene. Together with my friend Derson we aswell to the Fortress, the Central Market, and the railway station,the Maputo City Hall, the Cathedral, the Botanical Gardens and the Iron House…

I love to visit trainstations when i am traveling.
Maputo railway station is one of the most gorgeous buildings in Maputo built in 1895. Mostly known as CFM by Mozambicans, Maputo railway station represents the heart of Maputo because it was thanks to the existence of this building that Maputo (named Lourenço Marques during colonialism) picked up its development pace. Soon after it was built, it started attracting people from all over the world, businesses, infrastructure projects, jobs among many other things. It was because of the railway station that Maputo eventually became, THE CAPITAL OF MOZAMBIQUE

The island of Mozambique, a UNESCO World Heritage site is further north. The island was a trading hub for the Portuguese in the 16th century and is home to a number of historic buildings, including the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, the oldest surviving European building in the southern hemisphere.

Mozambique is a hidden gem in Africa that offers a unique and unforgettable experience. The locals are friendly.From its stunning beaches and islands to its diverse wildlife and rich cultural history, Mozambique has something for everyone. The country is the perfect destination to explore. I might come back one day.

Turkmenistan is one of the most fascinating yet secretive countries in the world. Sometimes called the North Korea of Central Asia – it is notoriously difficult to gain access to this landlocked central Asian country which sits on a historically crucial ancient Silk Road junction with a history dating back four thousand years to 2000 BC and the breakup of ancient Persia.

Visa & LOI

You must be invited to Turkmenistan by the State Migration Services. They will issue you a Letter of Invitation (LOI) which will grant you a Visa on Arrival (VOA) at the airport. Mine was arranged through a local guide named Murad (muradturkmen@mail.ru )who I recommend. . Tourist visas without a guide are not possible.

Turkmenistan, one of Central Asia’s most mysterious and under-visited destinations, offered me an unforgettable journey through its majestic deserts, ancient ruins, and modern wonders. I had the opportunity to explore unique natural phenomena such as the Karakum desert, Yangykala canyon and the Darvaza crater, known as the “Gates of Hell”, to immerse myselves in the history of the ancient cities of Nisa and Merv, and to enjoy the contrasts of the capital Ashgabat. With my guide and driver’s amazing stories and unforgettable views and potholes on the roads that took my breath away, this adventure of traveling in Turkmenistan will stay in my heart forever.

The design of the terminal building is inspired by Turkmenistan’s national symbols. The main terminal takes the shape of a Turkmen Falcon spreading its wings and the edge of its main roof is in the form of Oguz Han’s bow.

Darvaza or “gates of hell” is unfortunately, not a natural phenomenon, but a manmade disaster. It is actually an experiment gone wrong. The gas coming out of the crater that formed after the collapse of soil was set on fire as it harmed the environment and living space around the area. Update: Authorities in Turkmenistan are preparing to seal off the Darvaza natural gas crater, known as the “Gateway to Hell” by locals, which has been burning for over five decades.

Ashgabat is a city of contrasts, known for its marble buildings and monumental architectural projects. Entire neighborhoods are being built with luxurious modern buildings to live in, but there is rarely anyone to inhabit them. One of the highlights was the People’s Memory Memorial Complex, which pays tribute to the victims of the 1948 earthquake. The tragedy that destroyed the city and claimed the lives of thousands of people, as well as the efforts to rebuild and revive Ashgabat.

The city is often referred to as the “White Marble City” because of its massive monuments and impressive buildings clad in white marble, most of which are huge in size and stand out from afar. The rulers of the country have an obsession with Guinness World Records and have gone out of their way to claim many of them. During the tour, we passed through huge streets, with policemen patrolling every kilometer, but we didn’t see many civilians, which explains the other name – “The White Ghost Town”. Mostly students and teachers, who can be recognized by the uniforms in specific colors and styles.

Then we visited Independence Square, where the monumental Arch of Neutrality is located – a symbol of Turkmen neutrality, crowned with the golden statue of former president Saparmurat Niyazov. From the top of the arch, there is a panoramic view of the entire city, which is especially impressive in the evening, when the lighting of the buildings gives Ashgabat a magical look.

We also walked through the newly built neighborhoods, which are distinguished by their modern architecture and wide boulevards, as well as the older ones, with dozens of white cars parked (another car color is almost impossible to see in the city), and children playing on the playgrounds. We also visited the Ertugrul Gazi Mosque, which with its exquisite domes and minarets is one of the spiritual hearts of the city. We ended the day with dinner at a local restaurant where we tried delicious international dishes, a nice change from roadside eateries, and their limited selection. Ashgabat left us with a sense of grandeur and modernity combined with a deep respect for the history and traditions of Turkmenistan. If there was one thing this city lacked, it was people.

The “fiery fortress” at Yangykala canyon was carved out of limestone 5,5 million years ago by the disappearing Tethys sea. At one point, the Amu Darya ran its course right into the Caspian Sea, and over time, it created some magnificent landscapes on the way.

TRAINS IN TURKMENISTAN

Turkmenistan is covered 80% by the Karakum Desert, which is now home to much of the train track in the country.

Capital Ashgabat is the hub and journeys seem to be almost exclusively inter-city with little or no stops in between.

The main routes are west to Turkmenbashi on the Caspian Sea, north to Dashoguz close to the Uzbek & Kazakh borders and east to Mary & then Turkmenabat, also on the Uzbek border.

The incredible Yangikala canyons. Carved out by an ancient retreating sea, makes for surrealistic shapes.

Very remote and isolated.

Amazing place ! Surrealist shapes in the shadows of the desert. This area is close to Kazachstan, there are many similar landscapes aswell.

Akhal Teke Horses

One ofe the nice surprise during this trip: the famous Turkmen horses called Akhal Teke, we visited a farm near Goekdepe, about 50 km west of Ashgabat. There the owner showed the horses and explained about their importance to Turkmen culture.

Old Nisa

OLD NISA fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage site as it was one of the earliest cities of Parthian Empire. It is located in an atmospheric area on a hill, at the foot of the Kopet-Dag Mountains. 14 hectares in size, the fort accommodates two semi-excavated complexes of Parthian period (III c. BC – III c. AD) structures, designated as royal residence and temple complex. 

Turkmenbashi Ruhy mosque and mausoleum

The Turkmenbashi Ruhy mosque, also known as the Gypjak Mosque, is located not far from Ashgabat, around 15 km away. It is located near the hometown of the first President, and near this mosque, there is also his family mausoleum. 

Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex

Another large complex opened in 2014 and is dedicated to those killed in battles in the long history of Turkmenistan, including soldiers killed in WWII and victims of the 1948 earthquake. On October 6, 1948, almost two-thirds of the population of Ashgabat was killed, and most of the buildings in the city were destroyed in the earthquake.

Alem Entertainment Center

The largest Ferris Wheel indoors is another Guinnes Record and was inscribed as such in 2012. Its diameter is 57 meters and has 24 cabins inside.

The wedding palace was built in 2011 and has 11 floors. Even though you cannot go inside, it is worth visiting, as you might be lucky to see wedding couples outside.

The Arch of Neutrality

The Arch of Neutrality was built in 1998 and dedicated to Turkmenistan’s policy of neutrality after gaining independence from the Soviet Union. It is 95-meters-high, and on top there is a golden statue of the first president of Turkmenistan. It used to stand in the center of the city, but in 2010 it was moved to the outskirts.

The independence Monument

The independence monument is one of the symbols of the city. The base of the monument symbolizes a traditional yurt. The column on it is 118 meters high and topped with a crescent moon and five stars like on the Turkmen flag. Inside the dome, there is an ethnographical museum, and on top, there is a viewing platform. The main monument is surrounded by 27 prominent and important people in the history of Turkmens.

Merv is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the most important archaeological sites in Central Asia. Here we had the opportunity to see the remains of the ancient city, which has been an important commercial and cultural center for centuries since the 3rd century BC. Walking among the ruins, we could imagine the grandeur of this ancient city and its importance in history.

Turkmenistan is home to numerous camels that are domesticated and marked so that each owner can recognize them.

Erbent village, where you can see people still living traditional semi-nomadic lives. One of the most profound sight here is of a nun standing over the burial ground of the men slain in the battle against Soviet Union.