What to do and see in Rwanda

The ‘Land of the Thousand Hills’ offered exactly what my husband and I love: nature and wildlife. Rwanda is incredibly green, and they weren’t kidding about having a “thousand hills.” I have had time enough to explore endless rolling hills, tea plantations, volcanoes, tropical rainforests, and lakes.

Here’s a country that had a brutal humanitarian crisis. Yet it turned into a amazing destination where single-use plastic is banned, and a nationwide cleanup day is mandatory each month.

It’s a small, safe, and clean country that’s easy to explore . Thanks to my friend Firla and driver Martin i have seen a lot. Here are some of the best things to do in Rwanda:

Reflect at a genocide memorial

In the 1994 genocide against the Tutsis, Hutu militia murdered over 1 million people in 100 days. We visited the Nyamata Church Genocide Memorial south of the capital. It was a Catholic church where thousands sought refuge, only to be killed. The guided tour is by donation, and for obvious reasons, no photos are allowed inside.

Warning: Be prepared to see up close bloodied clothes, skulls damaged by weapons, and bones in half-opened coffins.

Despite having already visited memorials in other countries, seeing children’s clothes and hearing the story of the woman buried onsite still made me feel sick. I wish I could forget the “old textiles” smell in the crypts, but I can’t.

If you feel such an experience could be too much, opt for the well-known Kigali Genocide Memorial. It’s a serene, well-organized museum with exhibits and audio-visual guides. It’s also the resting place of 250,000 victims.       

Kigali by Mototaxi

Motorbike taxis, known as ‘motos’ in Rwanda, are still the most popular form of transport in Kigali for most people. They’re quick, cheap, convenient, and (mostly) safe. 

Moto drivers usually work from ‘stations’ – junctions and roadside areas where they hang about and wait for passengers. You’ll rarely have to walk long to find one. You can also hail a passing moto from the road – but this comes with some risks. 

All moto drivers in Kigali carry an extra helmet for their passengers, but due to Covid restrictions, you’ll need to wear a headscarf or shawl underneath. 

The Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund

Portia de Rossi gave this campus to her wife, Ellen DeGeneres, as a 60^th birthday gift–honoring the TV host’s childhood hero, Dian Fossey. The museum was so inspiring that we said, “We’re already in the Virungas. It’d be crazy not to see the gorillas here!”

There’s a replica of Fossey’s mountain cabin (where she was murdered), complete with her desk, typewriter, and other personal items. Can you imagine how dangerous it was for her in the ‘60s, studying little-known gorillas in a remote area with civil unrest?

If you want to learn more about the primatologist, I recommend reading her book Gorillas in the Mist (1983) or watching the 1988 film of the same name, starring Sigourney Weaver.

There’s also an onsite café and gift shop. I took a fun quiz to match my personality with one of Dian’s gorillas and bought gorilla nose prints (they’re like fingerprints for humans) as souvenirs.

Observing mountain gorillas in their home

Endangered mountain gorillas live in only three countries: Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).Gorilla trekking is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, but it comes at a price—US$1500 per person for a permit. In comparison, it costs US$800 in Uganda and US$400 in DRC.

During the briefing, our group leader taught us ‘gorilla ‘language,’ a low grunting sound like clearing your throat. We had to wait for the silverback to respond with this grunt before we could approach. Once he okayed, we spent an incredible hour observing them in their natural habitat.

As gorillas are susceptible to human diseases, it is mandatory to wear a face mask.

Tips:

• Support local jobs by hiring a porter. Though you can do without, we found them very helpful, especially on slippery paths. The cost is about US$10 per porter, but you can tip more if you’d like.|
• If you travel between March and November, you can get a 30% low-season discount on gorilla permits (US$1050 instead of US$1500) by combining the trek with visits to other Rwandan national parks.

Rwanda’s scenic trails

Rwanda has no shortage of hiking trails. But some need mandatory guides since you’ll be trekking through national parks with potential wildlife encounters.

We stuck to easy-to-moderate hikes. We didn’t feel physically prepared for more advanced hikes such as Mount Bisoke (3700m), Mount Muhabura (4127m), and Rwanda’s highest peak, Mount Karisimbi (4507m). 

Nyungwe Forest National Park

Nyungwe Forest is breathtaking!The canopy walk was amazing.

The Mysterious Lake Kivu

Lake Kivu, Rwanda’s biggest lake, is shared with the Democratic Republic of Congo. It helps supply Rwanda’s electricity, thanks to copious amounts of methane in its deep waters.

We enjoyed views of Lake Kivu from various points as we drove from north to south. If you’re planning a visit, popular resort towns like Gisenyi, Kibuye, and Cyangugu offer plenty of activities—boating, birdwatching, or chilling by the water. 

Relax lakeside in Kibuye

Halfway through our trip, we decided to chill in Kibuye by Lake Kivu. Our rental car broke down (for the third time!), and we needed to wait for repairs.

We couldn’t do any water activities, but we didn’t mind doing nothing. I’ll always remember those relaxing days by the lake, getting massages, eating fresh tilapia and sambaza (sardine-type Kivu delicacy), and drinking cold Virunga Mist beer. 

The border with DRC

A few days before my visit rebels from the March 23 Movement (M23) have taken control of the Congolese part of a checkpoint on the border with Rwanda near the city of Bukavu. I went to he Rusizi border, was allowed to cross the bridge for a picture on the DRC side, but my plan to go further into Bukavu was no more the case. Kahuzi Beiga National Park was closed, this was my main raison to travel across DRC and further south to Burundi, but when I was there I was too risky, so I skipped this plan. The Congolese part of the Rusizi border crossing has been under the M23 control.

Tea and more tea plantations

If you think tea picking is boring, you’re in for a surprise.

We walked through the fields, learned how tea is grown, and even spotted a great blue turaco. Tea harvesters are paid by the weight of the leaves they pick, so rainy days are a bonus since wet leaves are heavier. 

The highlight was picking tea leaves with the workers. How’d I do, you ask? Gloriously slow. We ended the tour by tossing leaves for good luck.

Sipping freshly brewed coffee across Rwanda

As someone who can’t function without morning coffee, I often worry about finding good options when I travel. Not in Rwanda. 

Coffee culture is so alive, you’d see cafés and coffee-washing stations all over the country. I tried cafés every chance I got. My favorites were Question Coffee in Kigali, Crema in Musanze, and Kivu Cup in Kibuye.

Tip: If you want to take Rwandan coffee home with you, buy from supermarkets where it’s cheaper vs. specialty cafés. A popular brand is Gorilla’s Coffee, the same brand used at the Ellen Degeneres-Dian Fossey campus.

The King’s Palace, located in Rwanda’s Nyanza ya Butare district, was the traditional seat of Rwanda’s kingdom. This historical location was of key importance during the colonial era.

Rwanda’s Ancient Kingdom

The ancient palace has been reconstructed in Rukari and visitors can now explore the replica King’s Palace, built using traditional materials and methods.

Enjoy Kigali’s modern dining scene

Since many expats live in Kigali, it’s no surprise the food scene is sizzling.

Admire the work of Rwandan artists 

Kigali has plenty of art galleries. We visited the Niyo Arts Gallery that features the work of local artists. I loved a painting of Rwandan mothers carrying babies on their back, a typical countryside scene. There’s an adjacent café with lovely interiors and great coffee.

Shopping for unique souvenirs at Kigali’s Caplaki Market 

Caplaki is a great spot to hoard souvenirs. I bought wooden gorilla and giraffe bookends, magnets, and wooden crafts. If you’re traveling around Rwanda, it can be tempting to grab items along the way, especially near the gorilla trekking areas. But if luggage space is tight, save your shopping for Kigali and stop by Caplaki before heading to the airport. Just be ready for persistent sellers!

Final Thoughts

I didn’t research much before going to Rwanda. My friend Firla is a local guide with lot’s of knowledge so i followed her advice.

Its dark past and famous gorillas were all I needed to know, and I wanted the rest to be a surprise. 

Rwanda is one of the cleanest, safest countries on the continent. I was thrilled to see a clean, thriving capital like Kigali, contrasted with the raw beauty of the countryside. 

While Rwanda markets itself as a luxury destination, I found there’s something for every budget. It’s a good choice for anyone who may not be ready for the more rugged parts of Africa, but still want to experience the continent’s rich culture and wildlife.